Advent

Thanksgiving is past so on to Advent...4 weeks to Christmas.  The tree is up!

Turkey day

Wishing you all a happy thanksgiving !
A good time to stop and count our blessings.

Sunrise in Virginia

Back in the USA!  Long trip home but all went smoothly.   Margie and Samuel picked me up at airport and immediately immersed in DC traffic. ..Beginning of Thanksgiving travel.  I  know I'm home.  Big family dinner with everyone filled with catch up news.  Wishing everyone a Happy thanksgiving!  

Send off

Gina, Dan and Alicia come by to say arrivaderci.   Gina and Dan are off to a spa in Montalcino.  Alicia off to Italian lessons.  Everyone knows my doorway...it's always open.  Ciao, ciao

Ciao Spello

Magic magic.   See you domani!

Rome

Ciao Spello.  A good send off starting with a last capachino and cornetto watching mist rise in the valley. Flora comes to help me pack.   Chris, Morris, and Ivy drive me to station and wave a last goodbye as train pulls away.

Packing

Last weekend in Spello.  Light rain puts damper on new oil festival.   Procession of carts and antique tractors canceled since street construction to replace old utility lines still ongoing.   So I  start to think of packing.  Morris, 9 year old next door has gotten in the habit of running up ..and I mean up, to get fresh cornetti and expresso for his dad.  Somehow I got included in this and he appears with a capuchino at my door and a supreme pastry..today an apple strudel delight.  How do I pack this?

Cats

An occasional cat commands a post on a roof top or on a window sill. This one catches a late afternoon cat nap in the sun.

Outside the wall

Suddenly mild and sunny.  Clouds threaten to cross the mountains.   A lovely afternoon for a walk along the walls. 

Gelataria veneta

Taking selfies and trying to eat gelato at same time
LOL.  This is the same little place Claire Powell and I stopped when we went to the chocolate festival here last visit.  Still just as yummy!

Perugia

Cool and cloudy visiting Perugia today. University town.  Lots of students on streets. Shopping with Australians who are bundling up for their next stop...Austria where it is snowing.

Sunset

Home to another magical sunset out my garden door. Clouds that look like a Sandy beach upside down and wispy clouds like cotton candy.

La Rocca

Paintings on walls still visible in many rooms.  Can't really capture the size and location.

Spoleto

Next stop Spoleto., Charleston's sister city.  It took us 8 escalators to come up to this hill town from parking in lower town.  The castle/fort known as LA ROCCA required an additional elevator ride.  This town wad once the capital of the region and stretched from Rome to the Adriatic on  the east coast.   The via Flamina goes right through it and is still the main route used today.  We were the only ones in the fort and wandered around amongst  the displays amazed at the feat of building such a huge structure on such a high hill. 

Pannetone

Join  Australians for dinner.   They cut the panettone horizontal and then turn so that it resembles a Christmas tree. It is then cut down in quarters and whosh...dissappears.  adults enjoy with dessert wine from local winery..hints of pear and honey,  light and not too sweet.  Greccheto grapes grown here. Chin. Chin

Our house on the hill

Green shutters help me find our house from lower gardens.  Nadia who helps Gina takes us to see houses for sale.  She seems to be part time realtor but also house cleaner and property manager.   Two room house with terrace overlooking valley for 160,000 euro.  Cozy, nice view up as well as out.

Mountain background

Very mountainous area with lots of snow capped peaks.  Summer resort. Lovely lake below.  Lots of damage to roads and bridges besides bldgs. Lots of tunnels but all were clear. Dan did a good job driving on dirt roads, detours, temporary bridges over ravines and lots of up and down plus switchback curves.  No wonder visitors not encouraged.

Pancaked

This is what's left of a 2 story house that"pancaked". We found out that the state must rebuild school so we requested our donation be used for new medical equipment.   That would benefit children but also others. The hospital will be rebuilt but funds don't cover equipment.

Amatrice

Several of you had donated to a fund to help with the rebuilding of the school damaged during an earthquake earlier this fall in Amatrice, Italy.   Gina had spearheaded this effort since her house here in Spello is not that far and she also has family in Rome.  At first we didn't think they were allowing outsiders to enter the area.  now they have set up a command center and corded off damaged bldgs.  It was much further than I  thought ..3 hrs.
Many rds. Being repaired and very mountainous.   All branches of aid workers  there.  See rubble behind us.

Celebrating olive oil

A local small olive oil producer is promoting his new oil just outside city walls where his olive trees grow.   This is the first year for his festival.   For 4 euros you get a glass of wine, a sausage panino and a bruschetto featuring his oil.  Also live music and a chance to try to be a local.   young and old, contemporary and classic. The younger man is the olive oil owner.  He is also selling his oil for 8 euros a bottle.  This 3 Oz restriction prevents me from slipping some in my carry on. Weather still cold and cloudy but families spending a fall afternoon seems this area's version of apple picking in VA.  Celebrating a harvest is an ancient ritual still alive today

Sunday

Sunday starts with 32 degrees and dense fog, mass at Santa Maria degli Angeli basilica in Asissi followed by cappuccino and gelato. The kids rate gelato stores.  Three flavors each.  Scoops can't be too stingy consistency creamy.  Flavor important.   What would you pick from this counter? I choose a pistachio  cornetto instead with coffee. Mmm.

Sunset

Sunset from my back porch.  The clouds and light and mists seem magical here.  Sadly my picture  conveys only a bit a the full beauty.
Visited the nearby winery for a wine tasting. Then a stop at local grocery.  Hope your views of autumn are amazing too.

St Martino

Even though this looks like St Clare, we are in the church of St Martino..only opened once a year here in Spello.  We finished the day here with the 5 pm mass after which hot mulled wine, little sausage paninis and roasted chestnuts were celebrated in the little piazza  in the rain. 

No crowds here

I really liked the booths with braids of garlic, bunches of onions and bright red peppers.  Even the prosciutto and sausage Sellars had more business. Chingale or wild boar sausage is an acquired taste.

Candy

The candy sales were popular.   Perugia nearby is famous for chocolate .  Anything with nuts is good

Todi

This is how to get up to the top of a mountain town.  Small town on shopping day.  Many people still rely on goods coming to them..clothes,  shoes, pots and produce.   Unfortunately most of booths selling stuff from china.  Local pizza and gelato still worth the visit.

Crossing the umbrian valley

From one place to another the landscape reflects the season. ..harvesting and planting.  Small farms glow in afternoon light.  Mountains edge the horizon.

Church

Walled cities center around somber stone facades.  Evidently the town comes alive for a festival celebrating medieval costumes and customs each summer .  Tomorrow spello celebrates St Steven .  Stay tuned.

Bevangna

On the way we had to stop in another small town founded by Romans or even the umbri people even earlier.   The small river had been diverted to run through this public laundry facility
Empty today. We strolled through the quiet narrow streets surprised by sudden piazzas presenting somber large church facades.  How many churches can there be?  We peek into a cloister converted into a hotel. At last we stop for coffee in a small bar where Gina picks up a gallon of local fresh olive oil in a metal can that a local small olive grove owner had arranged to leave for her.  This will go home with them in their luggage.

Shopping

Seafood  counter offers variety.  Even on a day when nothing is planned,  surprises await.  Gina asked if I wanted to go to with them to a larger market in the next town. She will visit her mother in the outskirts of Rome on Saturday and always brings basics.   But she also picked up some fresh tuna and 2 good sized squid. 
Just eggs, cheese, salad makings, etc for me.  Thinking of Christine as Gina also deals with an elderly parent while living in California most if the year.

Election

Woke up to surprising election results. At 6:30 am here is still just after midnight for you.  Interesting  to see how election is covered here.  Have heard how every head of state around the world has reacted.   Only CNN had even a few reactions from Americans. Weather returned to blue skies.  Photo of Porto Venere, one of 6 openings in city walls.  This one leads up to my street.

Walking in Rome

Even in the rain, walking riverside is special.   Lovely lunch in small restaurant. .Tried fried whole artichoke  that must be steamed first, veal and a homemade fruit tart and capuchino.

La pieta

No visit to St Peters complete without a prayer in front of the Pieta.

Fashion main street

The walk went by all major high fashion shops.  No black Friday here.

Spanish steps

Train to Rome and then metro to Spanish steps station.  The Castle de St. Angelo were our group met was only a short walk.

Rome

Today was my day to go to the Vatican.  I  had my ticket and was assigned to a small group lead by a priest.   Good effort to try to keep us separated from crowds of tourists taking selfies.   I  will follow with a few other photos but the details will have to wait til I get home.

Asissi

We went to Asissi for a late lunch.  The Australians have adopted me as a token grandmother.   Chris is 6'4" and likes to eat to keep going.  He had eaten gnocchi filled with cheese in a little cave restaurant in Asissi so off we went.   Once in town it suddenly started to hail and then pour down a cold wind blown rain.  It stopped just as suddenly and half way down a steep stairway a sharp turn left. duck down and into a cave restaurant.   A bright fire warmed and dried us.  After lunch a short walk around town and now home again. 

Piazza Kennedy

Overcast day. While in the Piazza Kennedy  just outside the walls there is a little playground and this fountain.  Hard to make out in this photo but the globe is made up of dozens of children holding hands.

Sunday mass

Santa Maria degli Angeli down the hill from Asissi is a huge Basilica built on the site of St Anthony's prayer cell and death.  This statue of St Anthony includes a live dove. A rainy misty day that calls for a cappuccino and a cornetto after mass.

Wall art

Many homes have pictures of Mary on the walls outside.  Often with candles and small bouquets.  Some are so old you can barely make out the frescoe. Here is one that looks so fresh and delicate.

The city of flowers

Each street and/or house competes for one of several annual awards for flower displays.  Even in November balconies brim with color.  In June the flower celebration spreads to street murals made with flower petals. No
nook is too small.

Umbria

Known as the green heart of Italy

Local color

Lovely scenery, good food, great company. .just a fun day.  Gina makes friends wherever she goes and seems to know all the off the beaten path places.  Too many pictures to share so you'll have to wait til I get home. Miss you all.

Mill

After lunch Gina s tour took us to a mill that is still making flour with water driven grinding stones.   The kids loved the cats, dogs, white geese. Fresh bread and biscotti.  Gina and her husband Dan didn't quite agree how to get there but we finally made it.  Kind of like driving to the hunting cabin back in the mtns if you remember.  Every day they bring their bread into spello bakeries to sell.

The Australian gang

In front of olive oil coop

Smallest olive oil ever!

Making olive oil

Yesterday we just sat out in the garden in the sun enjoying a table of local food and wine.  I really should have taken a foto.  So today I will try to make up.  Gina and her husband are wonderful tour guides and seem to enjoy everything as if they were the tourists.   Here I am in front of an olive oil coop.   They are harvesting olives now and I took a video of the process
  Gina got us a private tour.  Then we went up to a little hilltop town for a length lunch where everything is fresh and homemade.   Truffles are also in now.  There were 10 of us at the table.

Spello on the hill.

Looking back I see Spello on the hill.  It is either up or down here.
I walked to sportaletti winery further than I thought .  Their white wine is made from grachetto grapes...delicious and 5 euro a bottle from winery.   Ah,  But Then YOU Have To Carry It home.  Sad I can't bring home a case.

Olive trees in the clouds

Ten minute walk outside walls of Spello and your in the olive groves and clouds. Peaceful and sublime.

Trick or treat

Lots of fun yesterday helping the 4 Australian children carve pumpkins, see them in their costumes and going around with them collecting goodies from local shop keepers. They were ready to play along and when no candy was on hand they filled in with fresh sliced pepperoni or donuts.  Lots of smiles and laughter.  The kids are now planning how to bring this custom home with them.  Dulcetto o scarzetto!

Trick or treat

Lots of fun yesterday helping the 4 Australian children carve pumpkins, see them in their costumes and going around with them collecting goodies from local shop keepers. They were ready to play along and when no candy was on hand they filled in with fresh sliced pepperoni or donuts.  Lots of smiles and laughter.  The kids are now planning how to bring this custom home with them.  Dulcetto o scarzetto!

Happy Halloween

Halloween with Australian neighbors