Amarante

The Douro flows east toward Porto.  Following the river we stop at one of the many towns along its banks.  High water marks show flood levels in previous years.  Dams, some with locks to allow boats passage now moderate the volume.

Portugal is known for its blue tiles.  Granite is the predominant stone. A small bench combines them.  Again the Camino guide shows the way.  There are many routes.

Boating and walking by the river

Renay and Lou let me join them on a walk down down from our hotel to the Douro River.  We walk along around the bend to the sister resort, Six Senses.  Then we must go up, up.  We meet the dog from our hotel who has come to show us the way home including a shortcut through the grape vines. 
Later we take a boat ride and although it starts to rain, we drink "wime" and are happy.

Port wine

The Douro valley is the home of port wine.  Vineyards walk up the terraces on each side.  The Quinta da Pacheca is a "small" family run enterprise that has expanded with a hotel, restaurant and event venue since ordinances restrict adding additional grape fields.  After a tour from grape to glass,

lunch is served complimented by their wines.  We helped cook.  I was in charge of cutting octopus and stirring the creme brule. The grapes had just been harvested and pruning right down to old stock ready to begin.  Autumn colors begin.

Delfin Douro

Now we are on the banks of the Douro River. This new hotel is built high up into the bank amidst the terraced vineyards.  Every room has a balcony.  The view from my bed opens the countryside  flowing away to the horizon.  Rain, sun, clouds and rainbows kaleidoscope the view.
The restaurant is on the top floor.  More panoramas. A full moon on the river is hard to capture. 

Portugal

Adios to Espana but not before stopping in Orense to see the church of St. Eufemia..
Mona's name saint.  Quite surprising.
All the highways and landscapes glide by.  Our bus driver,  Sergio,  masterly maneuvers on open roads and narrow city streets..both going forward and backing up.
Crossing into Portugal we stop to enjoy a family lunch complete with 3 generations,

delicious food and "vado" songs by grandmother.  It was the first time we have had a chance to talk to a teen.  Hospitality personified.

Pontevedra and Combarro

Out of the cities and into 2 small fishing towns on the Atlantic coast. 
Pontevedra was where Christopher Columbus was born and the Santa Maria was built.  Home to Mariners and fishermen.
Combarro nearby is known for its mussel farming.  We meet 2 women who continue the tradition of low tide shell fish gathering.  Men go out on boats,
women work in tidal beaches.
Rain threatens.

The Saturday market

While pilgrims continue to stream into town Sat. Shopping goes on for the rest of the people.  We try octopus prepared and served in the fish market.