Port wine

The Douro valley is the home of port wine.  Vineyards walk up the terraces on each side.  The Quinta da Pacheca is a "small" family run enterprise that has expanded with a hotel, restaurant and event venue since ordinances restrict adding additional grape fields.  After a tour from grape to glass,

lunch is served complimented by their wines.  We helped cook.  I was in charge of cutting octopus and stirring the creme brule. The grapes had just been harvested and pruning right down to old stock ready to begin.  Autumn colors begin.

Delfin Douro

Now we are on the banks of the Douro River. This new hotel is built high up into the bank amidst the terraced vineyards.  Every room has a balcony.  The view from my bed opens the countryside  flowing away to the horizon.  Rain, sun, clouds and rainbows kaleidoscope the view.
The restaurant is on the top floor.  More panoramas. A full moon on the river is hard to capture. 

Portugal

Adios to Espana but not before stopping in Orense to see the church of St. Eufemia..
Mona's name saint.  Quite surprising.
All the highways and landscapes glide by.  Our bus driver,  Sergio,  masterly maneuvers on open roads and narrow city streets..both going forward and backing up.
Crossing into Portugal we stop to enjoy a family lunch complete with 3 generations,

delicious food and "vado" songs by grandmother.  It was the first time we have had a chance to talk to a teen.  Hospitality personified.

Pontevedra and Combarro

Out of the cities and into 2 small fishing towns on the Atlantic coast. 
Pontevedra was where Christopher Columbus was born and the Santa Maria was built.  Home to Mariners and fishermen.
Combarro nearby is known for its mussel farming.  We meet 2 women who continue the tradition of low tide shell fish gathering.  Men go out on boats,
women work in tidal beaches.
Rain threatens.

The Saturday market

While pilgrims continue to stream into town Sat. Shopping goes on for the rest of the people.  We try octopus prepared and served in the fish market.

The end of the trail

We start the day at Monte de Goce, a hill 3 miles from the cathedral of Compostela  where pilgrims catch their first glimpse of the spires marking the end of their pilgrimage.  Large figures look toward Campostela.   We watch for the yellow arrow to direct us from the countryside through the city to the
Finally we arrive at the cathedral.
Tradition says you must enter the cathedral and wait on line to clinb up behind the ststue of St. James to hug him and say "thanks for a great camino".  See the arm of the man behind hugging the statue.
We get our passport stamped again but do not qualify for the document that says you hiked at least 66 of the 500 miles.
Even at night the cathedral  shines above the city.

Knights Templar

The day starts off in the 40s but sunshine promises warm afternoon temperatures.
We start at a castle owned by the knights Templar in Ponferrada.  They controlled a bridge crossing the Sil River.  A sheer cliff protected the castle and allowed them to see afar.
We picked up the Camino there and followed on city streets and out into the country following the river.
For lunch we drove out to a celtic  style restaurant in the Beizo region.   The drive onward to Santiago de Compostela

was green hills and valleys.